I’ve updated the guide to reflect the fact that eBay listings expire after a while, and I’ve also added the BMW part number under “sourcing the part”.

I hope all goes well with your upgrade!

So the trick is to do it once only! Then mark the plastic section of the underguard where it covers the drain plug, and cut a hole large enough to get to it next time. Bit of trial and error involved but it’s worth it. I did consider just replacing all the rivets holding the plastic to the alloy frame with bolts and captive nuts, but the front looked a bit awkward so decided to go for the hole under the drain plug option.

You can make a cover for this hole, but it’s not 100% neccessary, if you do make sure it fits inside somehow so as not to catch on anything when (or if) offroading.

If you look at the picture, you’ll see there are two green washers – these are in addition to the washer that seals the cap to the housing. I expect you have been supplied with just this one larger washer. It’s your call as to whether you replace them or not, but they should be in stock with your local LR parts desk because they’re a service item I believe.

Interestingly, the Famous Four oil filter kit for the TD4 shows the oil filter element, a metal washer for the sump plug, and only one rubber washer for the oil filter itself!

3? i have one and cant visualise why there would be 3

I hope the PCV article helped a little – it’s not a difficult job, but it’s always nice to have an understanding of what you’re letting yourself in for before you start.

Interesting to hear about the injector tee-pieces possibly leaking diesel, I wonder how many people are losing out on performance and fuel economy because of it!

You might also want to consider this: http://www.formula4x4.co.uk/shop/land-rover-freelander-tunit-diesel-performance-tuning/. I don’t know if it’s available in SA or whether you were looking to spend that much – but it might be worth a shot.

And don’t forget about the usual suspects – EGR, air filter, MAF – which are all still applicable to the L-Series. And also check those intercooler hoses for splits! There’s no point in tuning your engine if it has a problem which is preventing it from running 100% in the first place.

I think 4×4′s generally should have both tyres replaced – but as I say it looks like they both were, ie spare to one a new one to the other and the left over to the spare.
I have been a bit worried about having the slightly newer ones on the front. The mechanic at the specialist I bought from said the VCU is working all the time so did not see a problem.
I do understand about if the VCU ‘seizes’ through over work than it can affect the IRD. I have read it should be replaced at 70000 …

Now the engine seems to be running OK I think I will get a couple of new ones and move the tyres around. have to decide which make. Sigh.

My feeling is don’t take any chances with brakes or tyres because they’re the only thing holding you on the road!

We have had our TD4 Auto for about 8 months. Like it. On looking it has a Syncron (formerly spare?) on LH front and a different Michelin (lattitude?) on RH front. Syncrons are now discontinued so guess thats why. Is this such a bad thing. The spare looks to be the other remaining front.

There is very little difference in tread between front and back, but fronts are newest. I am thinking of putting them on front and 2 new ones on back.

I have replaced mine as we were getting an increasing number of episodes of loss of power. I could have replaced just one, but I went the whole hog. Its OK now. But on odd occasions we get some fluctuations on tickover.
Sometimes tickover is fine, other times it can rise or dip. The dip can cause a ‘stall’. We have an auto BTW.

Your V6 has a Rover KV6 engine, which was also used in the first generation Kia Sedona – I don’t know if the ignition system is the same (Rover/Motorola Modular Engine Management System 3 – MEMS 3), but if Land Rover mechanics are hard to find you could try calling a Kia mechanic to see if they can help.

Your comment is light on detail, but does this sound anything like your problem?
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.fan.landrover/browse_thread/thread/67a5ad6e6ba63a9/3b3fcbd0da26a5ff

It definitely sounds like your crankshaft is over-pressurised, and I expect you will find your PCV is clogged. Generally once oil has been forced through a seal, that seal will become misshapen or even perish in places, and require replacement. You may be lucky and not need to replace any seals – it doesn’t sound like you’ve anything to lose by cleaning/replacing the PCV, then starting the engine and monitoring the leaks.

Replacing the crankshaft seals looks like quite an involved job; it is graded as 4 out of 5 for difficulty in my Haynes manual, and involves removing the crankshaft pulley, which is graded 3 out of 5 for difficulty, and itself requires that the auxilliary drivebelt and air conditioning compressor are removed.

The manual notes that the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt is extremely tight, and to prevent rotation of the crankshaft when removing the bolt, it is necessary to remove the starter motor and have an assistant insert a wide blade screwdriver between the flywheel ring gear teeth and the transmission bellhousing whilst the pulley retaining bolt is slackened.

The seal itself needs to be removed by screwing two self-tapping screws into it and pulling it out with a pair of pliers pulling on each screw in turn.

The Haynes manual notes “Great care must be taken to avoid damage to the crankshaft”.

No special tools are required, but I expect a well-equiped Land Rover workshop will have tools to make the job a lot easier. Personally I would get this sorted professionally, because it looks like a big, long and (in your case) oily job, and has the potential for some seriously expensive mistakes.

So the PCV may be clogged and I will check this. Will the seals that have gone stop leaking or will they need replacing? Is the front crank seal able to be replaced from the front of the engine readily or does the whole crank shaft need to be removed? Can you do this seal with the engine still in its bay? Do you need any special tools? Is the bolt holding the crank pulley on hard to undo? Do you need to somehow lock the engine?

Cheers, Stephen

It’s a real pain in the neck (and arms) to writhe around under the car trying to remove the sump guard, but in my opinion it’s worth it to get every possible last drop of old oil out of the engine.

Thanks for spotting it though

I’ve updated the article to make this clearer.

Ben

Ben

I am very happy to finally get this to work. I always used postfix and cyrus. But cyrus can’t work with ssl I believe.

Next I would like to have is my webmail (squirrel) in HTTPS there is a howto in nslu2-linux.org but i never got this to work. (it has been a while since I tried it )

kind regards Raymond

To work around the problem:
Internet Mail Provider > Customize > Redirect tab > enter the address of your SMTP server in the “Ignored addresses” box > OK

Glad you’ve got it working, I’m afraid I haven’t had time to look into your problem – I don’t think I ever would have thought a virus scanner could be causing your trouble though!

If you don’t mind, I would like to credit you on this and the mail server articles for all your testing and feedback.

The tiramisu is very good – I doubled the quantities because I was cooking for 7, but I found that I only needed just over half the double-quantity of sponge fingers (maybe because I was making it in a larger but shallower dish).

in dovecot.conf it said
protocols = pop3
i changed it to
protocols = pop3 pop3s

did the trick

I still have to do some testing and fine tuning (my isp smtp server etcetera) but I think I have a working SSL TLS mail server now. Thank you very much. your howto’s and comments were very helpfull.

Next will be the Tiramisu

Many thanks mate,
Cheers Raymond

It was AVAST antivirus wich did’nt allow me to use TLS. I have to find a way (exept switching off my avast every time) in how to solve this the elegant way.

Now the only problem left is the pop3 problem. I am looking into that at the moment.

I get a lot of replies but nothing likeor with STARTTLS
Here is the reply

220 water.mentjens.nl ESMTP Postfix
EHLO test
250-HOSTNAME@DOMAINNAME.NL
250-PIPELINING
250-SIZE 10240000
250-VRFY
250-ETRN
250-AUTH PLAIN
250-ENHANCEDSTATUSCODES
250-8BITMIME
250 DSN

/opt/etc/dovecot/dovecot.conf does not accept the “ssl_disable = no” parameter

I omitted “ssl_disable = no” and changed “ssl = no” into “ssl = yes” However I don’t know if I should.

Sending an email with thunderbird smtp settings to use tls, results in:
Sending of message failed.
An error occurred sending mail: Unable to connect to SMTP server192.168.1.100 via STARTTLS
since it doesn’t offer STARTTLS In EHLO response. Please verify that your Mail/News account settings are correct and try again.

when I tell my mailclient to NOT use TLS or SSL sending mail is not a problem.

Receiving an email with ssl configured in my mailclient results in my client telling me:
Could not connect to server 192.168.1.100; the connection was refused

when I tell thunderbird not to use TLS or SSL in POP3 traffic receiving mail is not a problem.

Conclusion the mailserver only works when TLS or SSL is not used.
Is there something I could check? Maybe something like the “ssl_disable = no” parameter

I feel like i’m verry close.

Kind regards
Raymond

It looks like it works now. However I cant login with telnet because i get the “Panic: POP3(you@yourdomain.com): Trying to allocate 0 bytes etcetera bug.

However thunderbird seems to cope with it.

this weekend I will try the patch and next week I hope to do the TLS/SSL howto

Thanx mate for your swift responses

Add (or edit) the following line in your dovecot.conf file:

protocols = pop3

That should be the last stage, and you should be able to telnet into your POP3 server now!

no joy

however just for fun I tried to login to the dovecot server with imap protocol and this works. I have no intention to use imap at this point. but the fact that i CAN login to dovecot with imap is very promising.

Any ideas why pop is not working? some config? or some port?

kind regards
Raymond

When I get this to work I will try to setup SSL/TLS. Your other howto.

greetz Raymond

I think I’ve spotted the problem – your passwd-mail file needs to have read permission for ‘group’ (g=r), but my instructions tell you to give it to ‘others’ (o=r) instead. Although o=r gives read permission to all other users, the u= and g= permissions take priority, and so all permissions are denied to the administrators group.

You should be able to fix it with:

chmod g=r,o= /etc/passwd-mail

I will change the instructions accordingly.

Still working on it. I get stuck at the following part:

after: /opt/etc/init.d/S90dovecot start

my /var/log/dovecot says:

dovecot: May 14 21:55:53 Info: Dovecot v1.2.beta1 starting up (core dumps disabled)
dovecot: May 14 21:55:53 Error: child 5831 (auth) returned error 89 (Fatal failure)
dovecot: May 14 21:55:53 Error: auth(default): passwd-file /etc/passwd-mail: Can’t open file: Permission denied
dovecot: May 14 21:55:53 Fatal: Auth process died too early – shutting down

I checked my permissions for the mentioned file they are:

-rw—-r– 1 root administ 35 May 14 21:52 passwd-mail

is it maybe because it writes administ in stead of administrator (as stated in the chown command) or maybe something with the uid or gid ( 8 and 12 )

Cheers Raymond

There were also a few missing bits of information, and a couple of typos that could mislead; these have been corrected, and I’ve tested the entire article successfully.

Oh, I have left the maildrop entry in /etc/group as maildrop:x:69: since that was how it was when I found it – although adding user maildrop as a member of the maildrop group won’t do any harm.

I would like to thank you for this howto. It is very comprehensive. I am not yet in the fase of testing so I dont know if it will work yet, but compared to most howto’s your explainaitions are very good.

Thanx again

Raymond

found two more typo’s

after: Now restart the server so our changes take effect.
you write:
opt/etc/init.d/S69postfix restart
should be
/opt/etc/init.d/S69postfix restart

And
vi /opt/etc/dovecot.conf
should be
vi /opt/etc/dovecot/dovecot.conf

I am replacing my postfix + cyrus configuration for a postfix + dovecot config.

Ill let you hear my progress

I’m afraid you’ve found a typo in the instructions – the command you need to run is actually:

postmap /opt/etc/postfix/virtual-maps

The postmap tool is part of the Postfix distribution, and turns the file you specify into a database file that Postfix can read – in this case, it turns virtual-maps into virtual-maps.db.

I reformatted this article a few months ago, and I think that’s when the typo appeared. Thanks for spotting it, and sorry for any confusion it caused!

Regards,

Nik.

I’m trying to install postfix + dovecot following your howto.

However I get stuck after the part: “We now turn /opt/etc/postfix/virtual-maps into a hash file,……. ”

What should I be doing there. I have no idea what “turning into a hashfile means” and I can’t seem to find any command.

Greetings Raymond